Tuesday, June 17, 2008
TWD: Peppermint Cream Puff Ring
I modified this week's recipe nearly beyond recognition. Some of the modifications were on purpose, some were accidental, but I doubt any of them were for the better.
The recipe calls for precisely 40 mint leaves, left to steep for hours. I didn't want to deal with 40 mint leaves, and I didn't want to wait for my pastry cream to sit, so I used Dorie's vanilla pastry cream recipe instead. I'd like to try peppermint pastry cream some day, perhaps when my mint starts to grow and I have so much I don't know what to do with it (fingers crossed!)
The part of the dessert that really led me down the road to failure was the puff pastry. I know nothing of the science of a pate a choux, but from what I've read on the TWD Q&A, my failure has something to do with imprecise temperature readings on my oven. Internal temperature is a crapshoot at our house. They fell into ugly little messes by the minute after their removal. It must've resembled the look on my face.
The success of some desserts rely on aesthetics. An eclair is the perfect example. Don't bother if you have a finicky oven.
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
TWD: La Pallette's Strawberry Tart
The most important part of this dessert is the fresh, ripe fruit, and the lack of perfect fruit makes the dessert a waste of time. I don't have perfect fruit accessible at this stage in the season, so I left my strawberries to macerate in some sugar for a few hours. It helped a little. I thought I had some delicious strawberry jam to add to my dessert...but it has somehow disappeared from my refrigerator and I cannot imagine what has happened to it...so I was stuck with Safeway brand strawberry jelly that must've been left behind by whoever stole my good stuff (seriously, I think I had a few jars of it! I'm doing a little crime investigation to get to the bottom of it.)
The recipe calls for a mix of fresh strawberries, high-quality jam, a dash of kirsch or other related liqueur, a sweet tart dough crust, and a topping of whipped cream or creme fraiche. I topped our dessert with some freshly whipped cream and added some ground almonds on top and called it good. It was simple, it was delicious, and if you have the freshest, most delicious strawberries of your life, this might be a good way to use them.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
TWD: Divine French Chocolate Brownie
After getting over my disappointment of Dorie's inclusion of the aforementioned raisin to the aforementioned otherwise perfect and reliable dessert, I set out to make the French Chocolate Brownie, acting is if I had never noticed the raisin bit in the first place. And you know what? I'm right. Old reliable. I had it for breakfast with my coffee, then in the middle of the day with my re-heated coffee, and after dinner with my red wine. All very discreet so as to not have to share with the two year old. She's better off without it.
Here's my description of this particular version of this wonderful traditional dessert. It is somehow light and rich at the same time. I love the consistency of a thick crust atop a gooey brownie--perfect. But it has its window of goodness. When Dorie says it's good for three days, she means it. Not that it becomes inedible, but that it loses its character. It lost its crust. By the third day I had concluded that it didn't have enough chocolate. There's only one thing to do to keep the brownies perfect in your memory: eat them fast. They're so light, it's actually pretty easy to do.
French Chocolate Brownies
- makes 16 brownies -
Adapted from Baking From My Home to Yours (with my input in italics)
Ingredients
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
1/3 cup kaka raisins, dark or golden
1 1/2 tablespoons water
1 1/2 tablespoons dark rum
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons; 6 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature and cut into 12 pieces
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
Getting ready: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 300°F. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with foil, butter the foil, place the pan on a baking sheet, and set aside.
Whisk together the flour, salt and cinnamon, if you're using it.
I advise you to overlook this entire paragraph, and add a bit of rum with the chocolate in the next paragraph! Put the raisins in a small saucepan with the water, bring to a boil over medium heat and cook until the water almost evaporates. Add the rum, let it warm for about 30 seconds, turn off the heat, stand back and ignite the rum. Allow the flames to die down, and set the raisins aside until needed.
Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Slowly and gently melt the chocolate, stirring occasionally. Remove the bowl from the saucepan and add the butter, stirring so that it melts. It's important that the chocolate and butter not get very hot. However, if the butter is not melting, you can put the bowl back over the still-hot water for a minute. If you've got a couple of little bits of unmelted butter, leave them—it's better to have a few bits than to overheat the whole. Set the chocolate aside for the moment.
Working with a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until they are thick and pale, about 2 minutes. Lower the mixer speed and pour in the chocolate-butter, mixing only until it is incorporated—you'll have a thick, creamy batter. Add the dry ingredients and mix at low speed for about 30 seconds—the dry ingredients won't be completely incorporated and that's fine. Finish folding in the dry ingredients by hand with a rubber spatula, then fold in the raisins along with any liquid remaining in the pan.
Scrape the batter into the pan and bake 50 to 60 minutes, or until the top is dry and crackled and a knife inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack and allow the brownies to cool to warm or room temperature.
Carefully lift the brownies out of the pan, using the foil edges as handles, and transfer to a cutting board. With a long-bladed knife, cut the brownies into 16 squares, each roughly 2 inches on a side, taking care not to cut through the foil.
Serving: The brownies are good just warm or at room temperature; they're even fine cold. I like these with a little something on top or alongside—good go-alongs are whipped crème fraiche or whipped cream, ice cream or chocolate sauce or even all three!
Storing: Wrapped well, these can be kept at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
TWD: Delicious Pecan Sticky Buns
Pecan Honey Sticky Buns
Makes 15 buns
For the Glaze:
1 cup (packed) light brown sugar1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces1/4 cup honey1-1/2 cups pecans (whole or pieces)
For the Filling:
1/4 cup sugar3 tablespoons (packed) light brown sugar1 tablespoon ground cinnamon3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
For the Buns:
1/2 recipe dough for Golden Brioche loaves (see below), chilled and ready to shape (make the full recipe and cut the dough in half after refrigerating it overnight)
Generously butter a 9-x-13-inch baking pan (a Pyrex pan is perfect for this).
To make the glaze: In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the brown sugar, butter, and honey to a boil over medium-low heat, stirring frequently to dissovle the sugar. Pour the glaze into the buttered pan, evening it out asbest you can by tilting the pan or spreading the glaze with a heatproof spatula. Sprinle over the pecans.
To make the filling: Mix the sugars and cinnamon together in a bowl. If necessary, in another bowl, work the butter with a spatula until it is soft, smooth and spreadable.
To shape the buns: On a flour-dusted work surface, roll the chilled dough into a 16-inch square. Using your fingers or a pastry brush, spread the softened butter over the dough. Sprinkle the dough with the cinnamon sugar, leaving a 1-inch strip bare on the side farthest from you. Starting with the side nearest you, roll the dough into a cylinder, keeping the roll as tight as you can. (At this point, you can wrap the dough airtight and freeze it for up to 2 months . . . . Or, if you want to make just part of the recipe now, you can use as much of the dough as you'd like and freeze the remainder. Reduce the glae recipe accordingly).
With a chef's knife, using a gentle sawing motion, trim just a tiny bit from the ends of the roll if they're very ragged or not well filled, then cut the log into 1-inch thick buns. (Because you trim the ragged ends of the dough, and you may have lost a little length in the rolling, you will get 15 buns, not 16.) Fit the buns into the pan cut side down, leaving some space between them.
Lightly cover the pan with a piece of wax paper and set the pan in a warm place until the buns ahve doubled in volume, about 1 hour and 45 minutes. The buns are properly risen when they are puffy, soft, doubled and, in all likelihood, touching one another.
Getting ready to bake: When the buns have almost fully risen , center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
Remove the sheet of wax paper and put the pan on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silicone mat. Bake the sticky buns for about 30 minutes, or until they are puffed and gorgeously golden; the glaze will be bubbling away merrily. Pull the pan from the oven.
The sticky buns must be unmolded minutes after they come out of the oven. If you do not have a rimmed platter large enough to hold them, use a baking sheet lined with a silicone mate or buttered foil. Be careful - the glaze is super-hot and super-sticky.
What You'll Need for the Golden Brioche Dough (this recipe makes enough for two brioche loaves. If you divide the dough in half, you would use half for the sticky buns, and you can freeze the other half for a later date, or make a brioche loaf out of it!):
2 packets active dry yeast (each packet of yeast contains approx. 2 1/4 teaspoons)1/3 cup just-warm-to-the-touch water1/3 cup just-warm-to-the-touch whole milk3 1/3 cups all-purpose flour2 teaspoons salt3 large eggs, at room temperature1/4 cup sugar3 sticks (12 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature but still slightly firm
What You'll Need for the Glaze (you would brush this on brioche loaves, but not on the sticky buns):
1 large egg1 tablespoon water
To Make The Brioche: Put the yeast, water and milk in the bowl of a stand mixer and, using a wooden spoon, stir until the yeast is dissolved. Add the flour and salt, and fit into the mixer with the dough hook, if you have one. Toss a kitchen towel over the mixer, covering the bowl as completely as you can-- this will help keep you, the counter and your kitchen floor from being showered in flour. Turn the mixer on and off a few short pulses, just to dampen the flour (yes, you can peek to see how you're doing), then remove the towel, increase the mixer speed to medium-low and mix for a minute or two, just until the flour is moistened. At this point, you'll have a fairly dry, shaggy mess.
Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula, set the mixer to low and add the eggs, followed by the sugar. Increase the mixer speed to medium and beat for about 3 minutes, until the dough forms a ball. Reduce the speed to low and add the butter in 2-tablespoon-size chunks, beating until each piece is almost incorporated before adding the next. You'll have a dough that is very soft, almost like batter. Increase the speed to medium-high and continue to beat until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl, about 10 minutes.
Transfer the dough to a clean bowl (or wash out the mixer bowl and use it), cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature until nearly doubled in size, 40 to 60 minutes, depending upon the warmth of your room.
Deflate the dough by lifting it up around the edges and letting it fall with a slap to the bowl. Cover the bowl with the plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator. Slap the dough down in the bowl every 30 minutes until it stops rising, about 2 hours, then leave the uncovered dough in the refrigerator to chill overnight. (After this, you can proceed with the recipe to make the brioche loaves, or make the sticky buns instead, or freeze all or part of the dough for later use.)
The next day, butter and flour two 8 1/2-x-4 1/2-inch pans.
Pull the dough from the fridge and divide it into 2 equal pieces. Cut each piece of the dough into 4 equal pieces and roll each piece into a log about 3 1/2 inches long. Arrange 4 logs crosswise in the bottom of each pan. Put the pans on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silicone mat, cover the pans lightly with wax paper and leave the loaves at room temperature until the dough almost fills the pans, 1 to 2 hours. (Again, rising time with depend on how warm the room is.)
Getting Ready To Bake: Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
To Make the Glaze: Beat the egg with the water. Using a pastry brush, gently brush the tops of the loaves with the glaze.
Bake the loaves until they are well risen and deeply golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the pans to racks to cool for 15 minutes, then run a knife around the sides of the pans and turn the loaves out onto the racks. Invert again and cool for at least 1 hour.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Mother's Guilt
Sometimes I find myself trying to do too much. I feel like I'm running to use the bathroom, running to get a drink of water, picking up dishes or clothes along the way since there's no time to clean up the house, and just not eating. But I insist on baking and cooking everything from scratch (right down to the mayo) and calling that my outlet, or finding tedious household chores to do that are unimportant. I periodically give myself a lecture: just calm down. Get out a puzzle or a book and hang out with the kids. Don't cook dinner tonight. Find the least important tasks on my mental to-do list and let them go. My husband found a stack of linen napkins sitting on the table the other day and asked what they were doing there. I needed to iron them before I put them away. I think I realized how riculous I sounded only after he put them away (without ironing them) and I felt like something had been crossed off my to-do list. Put that under my 'Waste of Time. Play with Kids Instead' list. I can garden some other time (like when Elizabeth is interested), I can blog some other time (another life, maybe), I'll iron my linen when I'm sixty (or never), and we can order out for dinner tonight (any ideas? Where can we order a soft dinner for a little girl with a cut up mouth?)